Stitch Samples :: The Fielder Dress and Top from Merchant & Mills

Melanie is sharing a couple of her recent makes using our laundered linen and matching rib knits from Merchant & Mills. Linen is one of our favorite summer fabrics because it is so easy to wear and, like all natural fibers, it’s also very breathable. The ribbing adds a bit of interest and many opportunities for color blocking!

Maker: Melanie

Pattern Used:

The Fielder by Merchant & Mills. (The pattern was recently released in an extended size range, UK 20-28, available in PDF which we could gladly print for you!)

Fabric Used:

Merchant & Mills European Laundered Linen in Alta-Mare and Sweeps-Scrim with matching cotton rib. We stock several colors of Laundered Linen, as well as many other linens and linen blends, which would be perfect for this pattern. We also have a variety of rib knits.

Did you make a muslin?

I did make a muslin. I had actually made the dress before, using the original size range. Being just outside the size range, I had to grade up and make some tweaks to get the right fit. When the new range was released, I thought I would give it a try. Anything involving bust darts, I tend to muslin.

Did you make any alterations to the pattern?

I ended up lowering the bust dart, which has become fairly common. Oh gravity!

Cashmerette has a great tutorial on how to change the dart position.

Did you learn any new techniques/skills?

No, but that is why I love this pattern so much. It’s a simple sew.

Do you have any tips for construction?

To stabilize the shoulder dart, I used SewKeysE, knit stable tape. (Similar to our Stretchy Fusible Seam Tape – just trim it down to the width you need!). And when pressing the dart, I used the side of the tailor’s ham.

When sewing the bust dart, instead of back-tacking at the tip of the dart, I pivot the fabric and sew along the fold. Blueprints for Sewing has a great blog post on darts.

What did you like about the pattern/fabric?

I love the laundered linen, I can machine wash and dry it and it sews beautifully. Even in the 90 degree weather wearing black, I was comfortable.

I was able to use ribbing, left from previous projects and it is a great pattern for color blocking, so it’s great for scrap busting.

What did you dislike about the pattern/fabric?

I’m not a big fan of the open darts but that is a simple fix and really not that bad.

Would you make it again?

I have plans to make the short sleeve, crew neck version in some silky noil.

There are several ways you could make this pattern all your own! Try a contrasting ribbing (or one of these fun striped pre-cuts!) or mix up your prints and solids. Kalle has made a few versions that she loves: