At the shop, we like to make new samples every season so that we can try out all of our different patterns and fabrics, and then you call can see them made up. Since we usually make them for ourselves, we can share details of the fitting process too! Ellen recently sewed up the Thelma Boilersuit from Merchant & Mills and is sharing her muslin-making adventure today. Check back again soon for the final results!
Maker: Ellen
Pattern Used: Thelma Boilersuit by Merchant & Mills (if we’re out of stock, you can always purchase a PDF and have us print it for you!)
Fabric Used: Muslin – 50″ wide in Natural
Did you make a muslin?
Yes, for 2 main reasons. 1) I chose a size smaller based on the finished garment measurements and wanted to make sure that was wise, and 2) I am short, and wanted to get all the proportions right, especially the waist location and rise length/crotch depth.
Did you make any alterations to the pattern?
I made changes to all of the 7 main pieces (i.e., bodice, sleeves, legs) and their corresponding facings. Except for lengthening the rise, and rotating the sleeve, all of the alternations were for shortening everything. Narrowing the shoulder seam was the only “design change” I made.
Getting the proporations right on any one-piece jumpsuit-type garment is critical, especially waist placement (if there is a defined waist) and crotch depth. When making a jumpsuit in a woven fabric, getting in and out of it is as important as the look when wearing. The key to that is when trying on the muslin, raise your arms over your head. Too short in the crotch will be uncomfortable. Sit down and see if it pulls on your shoulders.
We all love jumpsuits because they’re comfortable. Sometimes it takes a bit of preliminary work to make it so, and make it worth it in the end.
Stitch Samples is a blog series that gives you a closer look at the samples made by members of our shop gang.
