We’ve recently received a full collection of viscose linen silky noil, and it’s one of shopgirl Valerie’s favorite fabrics to sew with. Check out some of her makes using this versatile fabric, and some tips for using it yourself.
(Above: a heavily modified Orchidee Blouse from Deer & Doe, in Rust)
I have 8 or 9 items made in silky noil and even more in my sewing queue! My favorite thing about it is its soft hand and drapey feel. It’s the perfect choice when you want something that swings or hangs in a pretty way, or anything with gathers or flounces or ruffles.
Every time I wear this maxi skirt I get compliments on how it swishes!
(Above: a paneled maxi skirt in Dark Denim)
“Viscose” is a type of rayon, and this particular fabric is 75% viscose and 25% linen. The “silky” part of the name refers to the very slight sheen the fabric has (there’s no silk in it), and the “noil” refers to the slubby texture.
(Above: viscose linen silky noil in Wine, fresh out of the dryer)
Because of its high rayon content, it will definitely shrink, so I recommend a hot dryer after your first pre-wash, to get all the shrinkage out right away.
But you can see how wrinkled it comes out – you’ll definitely have to press it really well with a lot of heat and steam – it will stretch out again!
The one time I didn’t press really well before cutting, I found my fabric growing and growing…and growing as I worked with it. I had to cut off almost 5 inches from this dress to get it to the length I wanted (and the pockets are in completely the wrong place), but I still wear it!
(Above: McCall’s tunic dress in Rust and Navy)
I love to recommend this fabric for anyone who is ready to move on from plain cotton or linen fabrics. This is a great intermediate step before jumping into really slippery 100% rayons or silks. It’s easier to work with than those fabrics, but will give you so much more softness or drape than fabrics with a higher linen content.
(Above: the Pixie Dress from Style Arc in Scarlet)
Viscose Linen Silky Noil is a great choice for any dress, skirt, or blouse pattern that needs movement, or would benefit from a soft drape. Try it on a camp shirt or maxi skirt, and conquer your fear of rayons. You might find a new favorite!
Thanks for this post, Valerie! Very timely, too! I made a pair of Arenite Pants a few years ago that I’ve pretty much worn to shreds and I just picked up a few yards to make another pair.
I particularly appreciate the tip about the hot dryer for the pre-wash.