{"id":5590,"date":"2021-03-03T07:19:59","date_gmt":"2021-03-03T12:19:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.stitchsewshop.com\/?p=5590"},"modified":"2021-03-03T07:19:59","modified_gmt":"2021-03-03T12:19:59","slug":"stitch-samples-jasika-blazer-part-iv-march-2021","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/stitch-samples-jasika-blazer-part-iv-march-2021\/","title":{"rendered":"STITCH SAMPLES :: JASIKA BLAZER :: PART IV"},"content":{"rendered":"

We are coming to the conclusion\u00a0of the\u00a0Jasika Blazer series<\/strong><\/a>, and today Mary is sharing her\u00a0final steps and her finished jacket! \u00a0As always, she has excellent\u00a0advice for stitching and pressing to give you beautiful finishes. \u00a0Read all about it, and how she had one final “make it work” moment after the blazer was done!<\/p>\n

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We left off with the body of the Jasika Blazer sewn together.\u00a0 <\/span>It is starting to look like something! \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Now I am ready for the collar and lapels.\u00a0 <\/span>I continued to follow the directions from the pattern and watch the \u201csew along\u201d from Closet Core Patterns for additional tips.\u00a0 <\/span>Both really help me see the next steps.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Accurate cutting and marking with tailor tacks make this go so much smoother. I prefer tailor tacks to chalk or even a frixion marker because I can see the match circle from both the wrong side and the right side of the fabric.\u00a0 <\/span>Silk thread pulls out easily and completely from the tailor tacks when you are finished sewing.<\/p>\n

Pin and stitch precisely from circle to circle each step of the way, and use your pressing block for a good crisp crease on the collar and under collar.\u00a0 <\/span>I pin my collar to my pressing ham and shape it gently with lots of steam from my iron.\u00a0 <\/span>Let it cool before removing it. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\"\"\n

For the lapels, I drew the seam allowances on the jacket facing and wrong side of the jacket.\u00a0 <\/span>There are TWO different<\/b> seam allowances \u2013 5\/8\u201d and 3\/8\u201d.\u00a0 <\/span>I also wanted to make sure I had a perfect line to follow for my lapel point.\u00a0 <\/span>Then I started stitching at the circle, across the top of the lapel (3\/8\u201d seam).\u00a0 <\/span>I shorten my stitches to 1.5 going into and coming out of the lapel point.\u00a0 <\/span>Across the point I take 1-2 stitches at a 45*angle across the point.\u00a0 <\/span>It sounds counter intuitive, but you get a better point and a stronger point this way.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

Pay special attention to grading these seam allowances; the grading will help the fabric roll the correct direction.\u00a0 <\/span>Above the break you want the collar and jacket facing to roll outward, and below the break you want the jacket facing to roll inward.\u00a0 <\/span>Press using lots of steam and your handy clapper!<\/p>\n\"\"\n

I did take the time to overcast the lapel with silk basting thread along the roll line and steam it with my iron.\u00a0 <\/span>This is my \u201cslow sew\u201d and I want to get this right.\u00a0 <\/span>The more I work on this blazer the more excited I get as I watch it come to life as a beautiful garment!<\/p>\n

The Sleeves are pretty straight forward.\u00a0 <\/span>I added the buttons at the bottom of the cuff.\u00a0 <\/span>I have done alterations for years and I find replacing buttons in a closed sleeve irksome.\u00a0 <\/span>I can\u2019t easily fit my hands into the opening; it\u2019s awkward.\u00a0 <\/span>So I sewed the buttons along the first sewn seam while the sleeve was still flat.\u00a0 <\/span>So much easier!<\/p>\n\n\t\t