{"id":5422,"date":"2020-12-20T11:31:55","date_gmt":"2020-12-20T16:31:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.stitchsewshop.com\/?p=5422"},"modified":"2020-12-20T11:32:29","modified_gmt":"2020-12-20T16:32:29","slug":"stitch-samples-jasika-blazer-part-ii","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/stitch-samples-jasika-blazer-part-ii\/","title":{"rendered":"Stitch Samples :: Jasika Blazer :: Part II"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Today we are sharing an update on the\u00a0Jasika Blazer progress from Valerie and Mary! \u00a0They are at different points in their progress now: Valerie is examining the fit of her second muslin and Mary has cut out all of her pieces and begun the prep work for sewing.\u00a0At Stitch we believe that everyone&#8217;s sewing journey is unique, and a big project like this is no exception. \u00a0Keep reading for their thoughts and tips for this pattern!<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h5>Valerie:<\/h5>\n<p>The Jasika journey continues! After my first muslin, the changes I made to the pattern were as such:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>lowering both darts 1\u201d<\/li>\n<li>swayback adjustment<\/li>\n<li>grading up one size in the hips<\/li>\n<li>adding 2\u201d to the sleeve in the bicep<\/li>\n<li>shortening the hem and the sleeves<\/li>\n<li><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>After making all those changes to my pattern, I made a second quick muslin (no collar, pockets, or linings) to make sure these changes worked out the way I wanted.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p>First up, the darts came out perfect. Amazing how only 1\u201d can make such a difference!<\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5429 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika-part2_darts.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" \/>\n<p>Next, the swayback adjustment looked great in the back, and smoothed out the side panel perfectly. But! A little tuck appeared in my side panel that at first confused me.<\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5428 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika-part-2_side-panel.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" \/>\n<p>I noticed the side panel matched the back perfectly, but was about 1\u201d too long to match the front (hence the tuck)<\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5426 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika-part-2_rogue-tuck.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" \/>\n<p>The problem was that I shortened the front more than the back, since the sway back adjustment was already shortening the back. That meant that when I went to shorten the side panel, instead of taking out the same amount all the way across, it should have been a wedge shape, with the larger side towards the front.<\/p>\n<p>Instead of re-doing that step, I just took out an additional little wedge shape, starting with 1\u201d on the front side, and diminishing to zero on the back.<\/p>\n<p>The pattern looks really weird and twisted now, but with the tuck in place it hung very nicely and looked great on the muslin, so I knew it was right!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5427 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika-part-2_side-panel-fix.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" \/>\n<p>The grading out at the hips made the front come together easily, but it didn&#8217;t do quite enough to make the back fit properly. The vent in the back was still kicking out a bit, which I don&#8217;t want.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p>To fix it, I added 1\/2\u201d to the back panel, from the fullest part of my hip to the hem. That should give me enough extra room only where I need it (in the back, not all the way around) to make the vent lay the way it should.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5425 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika-part-2_back-vent-fix.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" \/>\n<p>Finally, the length of the jacket itself looked great, but the sleeves were still a tiny bit too long. The process of adding more ease in the bicep shortened the sleeve a bit, so I didn&#8217;t think I would need to take off the 5\/8\u201d I originally planned. Good thing I did a second muslin, or I would have never known I still needed to take off a little more! I&#8217;ll remove only 3\/8\u201d from the sleeve and that should do it.<\/p>\n<p>The next step for me is\u00a0prep work! That includes pressing and shrinking the wool, washing the bemberg lining, very carefully cutting out my fabric and interfacing, and applying all my fusible interfacing.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h5>Mary:<\/h5>\n<p>Holiday sewing has bumped my Jasika Blazer plans back a little, but finally it\u2019s time for some \u201cme\u201d sewing.<\/p>\n<p>After making and fine tuning my second muslin for the Jasika Blazer, it is time to cut out the fabric, interfacing and lining.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I am using a beautiful wool tweed and a Bemberg rayon lining.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I ordered the interfacing\/shoulder pad kit from Closet Core just to simplify things a little.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Because there are a LOT of pieces, and some of them get cut out of fabric and one of the interfacings, I color coded all my pattern pieces: blue for fabric, yellow for weft interfacing, orange for knit, purple for hair canvas and green for lining. That helped me to see what was cut and what still needed to be cut.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5440 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika_mary1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/>\n<p>It is important to cut your fabric on grain so your jacket doesn\u2019t distort and hang on your body in an odd way.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I pulled a crosswise thread on both ends of the wool and cut along that thread.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Because it is a tweed with no obvious print or plaid to match, I decided to cut the pattern with the fabric folded as opposed to in a single layer.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I made sure both the selvage and the cross wise grain were straight.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I did decide to cut all my pieces as if I had a nap just so there wouldn\u2019t be any surprises.<\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5441 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika_mary2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/>\n<p>The wool was cut first.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>After cutting out, I clipped the notches \u00bc\u201d.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>All other construction markings were done after the fusible interfacing is applied. It is very difficult to tell right side from wrong side on the wool, so I place a small piece of blue painter\u2019s tape on the right side.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I peel off the tape just before I do any pressing. I like painter\u2019s tape because it stays put without damaging the fabric when I remove it. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5442 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika_mary3.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/>\n<p>Once everything is cut out, I fuse the interfacing to the correct pieces.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I am very careful at the fusing stage so the fabric\/interfacing shape matches the original pattern.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I lay the fabric on the ironing board, wrong side up.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Then I lay the pattern on top and gently move the fabric to match the shape of the pattern.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Loosely woven fabrics can stretch and shift as they are handled, and I don\u2019t want any distortion in my final jacket (My very first jacket suffered from this \u2013 but we learn). <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Then I remove the pattern and place my interfacing on top of the fabric.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I may again check using the pattern, then I fuse.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>To fuse I will press (an up and down movement), not iron (a back and forth movement).<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Pressing sets the glue into the fabric and binds it to the interfacing, ironing will stretch the fabric and can cause the interfacing to shift and bubble.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Medium high heat, steam and pressure for about 15 seconds, I start at the center of the piece and work my way out, overlapping to make sure everything is fused. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5444 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika_mary5.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5445 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika_mary6.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5446 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika_mary7.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/>\n<p>Fusing will take some time, so enjoy this zen time.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Go into your zone, watch your favorite podcast, or listen to a good audio book.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Just go with it!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>After the fusing I go back and mark the pattern with all dots, darts, pocket welts and roll line. For the dots I use tailor tacks because I can see them from both sides.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5448 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika_mary9.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/>\n<p>Then I will draw in the dart legs, welt outlines, center front and roll line with a chalk wheel, Frixion marker, or thread tracing. This will give me an accurate guide for stitching.<\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5449 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/jasika_mary10.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/>\n<p>Now I\u2019m ready for the fun. Let\u2019s sew!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp; Today we are sharing an update on the\u00a0Jasika Blazer progress from Valerie and Mary! \u00a0They are at different points in their progress now: Valerie is examining the fit of her second muslin and Mary has cut out all of her pieces and begun the prep work for sewing.\u00a0At Stitch we believe that everyone&#8217;s sewing&#8230;  <a class=\"excerpt-read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/stitch-samples-jasika-blazer-part-ii\/\" title=\"Read Stitch Samples :: Jasika Blazer :: Part II\">Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":5451,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[80],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5422","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stitch-samples"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.9 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Stitch Samples :: Jasika Blazer :: Part II - Stitch Sew Shop<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/stitch-samples-jasika-blazer-part-ii\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Stitch Samples :: Jasika Blazer :: Part II - Stitch Sew Shop\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"&nbsp; Today we are sharing an update on the\u00a0Jasika Blazer progress from Valerie and Mary! \u00a0They are at different points in their progress now: Valerie is examining the fit of her second muslin and Mary has cut out all of her pieces and begun the prep work for sewing.\u00a0At Stitch we believe that everyone&#8217;s sewing... 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