{"id":5354,"date":"2020-11-17T10:16:01","date_gmt":"2020-11-17T15:16:01","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.stitchsewshop.com\/?p=5354"},"modified":"2020-11-17T10:16:01","modified_gmt":"2020-11-17T15:16:01","slug":"stitch-samples-jasika-blazer-parti-nov-2020","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/stitch-samples-jasika-blazer-parti-nov-2020\/","title":{"rendered":"Stitch Samples :: Jasika Blazer :: Part I"},"content":{"rendered":"

Since it is Outerwear Month at Stitch, both Mary<\/strong> and Valerie<\/strong> decided to tackle the Jasika Blazer<\/a><\/strong> from Closet Core patterns together! \u00a0They helped each other with the muslin fitting process and had a lot of thoughts, so read on to find out what changes they plan to make before cutting into their final fabrics.<\/p>\n

\n

Valerie:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Earlier in the fall Mary and I were discussing the Jasika blazer as a must for the fall\/winter sewing queue, so we decided to work on ours together during November!<\/p>\n

The first step was to get a muslin sewn up, an absolutely necessary step for\u00a0a garment with so much tailoring.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

I sewed the\u00a0size 14 (with the D cup expansion), and everything came together very easily. The instructions are very clear, and the multitude of marks and notches make the construction steps make perfect sense.<\/p>\n

I tried the muslin on with the shoulder pads in place, and the shoulders and back and bust line fit very nicely. \u00a0However,\u00a0the darts are slightly too high, so I will lower the side dart by about an inch and shorten the front dart by the same amount.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

The next thing I noticed was an issue with the sleeves. They look\u00a0great if I stand still without moving, but if I want to move my arms while wearing my blazer, I’ll need a little bit more ease! I’ll add about 2\u201d in the bicep to allow for free movement.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

Next was the back – Mary helped me pin out the excess in the back waist to accommodate my sway back\/short waist. I figured I would need to do this, which is why I was careful to mark the waistline on the outside of my muslin pieces to make this adjustment easier. The wedge shape I’ll remove is about 5\/8\u201d in the center, grading out to zero at the side seams.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\"\"\n

Then (and this was another adjustment I knew I would need) it was definitely too long. Luckily Mary was there again to help me pin up my sleeves about 5\/8\u201d and the jacket hem a full 3\u201d!\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The final adjustment is to grade out to a 16 in the waist\/hips, so that I’ll be able to button the finished jacket easily.\u00a0 <\/span>Even though I probably won’t wear it that way, it will hang properly with a little bit more room in the waist.<\/p>\n

Once I make all these changes to my pattern, I’ll probably do another quick muslin (without the collar or pockets) to make sure the changes turn out the way I like.\u00a0 <\/span>Then onward to cutting into my beautiful dark purple wool I’ve been saving for a blazer!\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

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Mary:<\/strong><\/p>\n

I have had an urge to make a blazer lately and November is a perfect time for a warm toasty jacket.\u00a0 <\/span>What a versatile piece of clothing!\u00a0 <\/span>It dresses everything up, makes everything look put together.\u00a0 <\/span>Pop it on with jeans, pair it with a skirt or tailored trousers. The Jasika by Closet Core Patterns is a perfect pattern to dive in with.\u00a0 <\/span>Besides step by step clearly written directions, Closet Core offers online support on fit plus an optional sew along.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Making a jacket is a labor of love, what I call \u201cslow sewing.\u201d It takes time, attention to details, and care with fitting, a process both challenging and rewarding.\u00a0 <\/span>Accurate measurements are crucial with any tailored garment, so fellow shop gal, Valerie, measured my upper bust, full bust, waist, hips, bicep, and arm length.\u00a0 <\/span>Ordinarily, I would have to do a full bust adjustment, but Closet Core provides C and D bust cup front pattern pieces.\u00a0 <\/span>I chose the size corresponding to my measurements. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

After I traced all the pattern pieces, I cut out my \u201cFirst\u201d muslin. Whenever you make a new pattern, make a muslin. My fabric is a beautiful, expensive wool tweed, so I want to address and correct any fitting issues before I cut my good fabric. I sewed up my first muslin and tried it on.\u00a0 <\/span>As you can see by the pictures, I needed to do some tweaking.<\/p>\n

When you assess the fit of a garment, start at the shoulders\/neckline. Does the neck gap, are the shoulder seams aligned along the shoulder ridge, do the shoulder sleeve seams rest on the shoulder?\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Look at the back of the garment.\u00a0 <\/span>Is it too tight, too loose?\u00a0 <\/span>Does the fabric puddle at the waistline?\u00a0 <\/span>Does the vent gape? Are there drag lines across the back?<\/p>\n

Check the front.\u00a0 <\/span>Does the fabric lie smoothly across the upper chest?\u00a0 <\/span>Are the bust darts in the correct place? Do they need to be moved, made shallower or deeper?\u00a0 <\/span>Is the waist at the correct place?\u00a0 <\/span>Can the garment be buttoned comfortably?\u00a0 <\/span>Is the length a good proportion for you?<\/p>\n

Do the sleeves fit?\u00a0 <\/span>Are they too tight, too loose?\u00a0 <\/span>There should be 1 \u00bd – 2\u201d of ease in the sleeve at the bicep for movement. Is the length correct?\u00a0 <\/span>The sleeve should hit the first knuckle of the thumb just below the wrist.<\/p>\n

In looking at my muslin, I could see the back needed a slight sway back adjustment (1\/2\u201d), a slight round back adjustment and a forward shoulder adjustment. (Ah, the joys of a mature figure.)\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\n\t\t