{"id":5073,"date":"2020-08-14T17:45:37","date_gmt":"2020-08-14T21:45:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.stitchsewshop.com\/?p=5073"},"modified":"2020-08-14T19:03:16","modified_gmt":"2020-08-14T23:03:16","slug":"stitch-spotlight-silk-noil-aug-2020","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/stitch-spotlight-silk-noil-aug-2020\/","title":{"rendered":"Stitch Spotlight :: Silk Noil"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Today we are diving\u00a0into the wonderful world of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.shopstitchsewshop.com\/shop\/FABRIC\/WOVEN-FABRIC\/Silk.htm?search_keyword=raw\">silk noil<\/a>! \u00a0This soft, textured fabric is a delight to work with and wear. \u00a0Because\u00a0of how easy it is to handle, it is perfect for garment-makers\u00a0who want the luxury of silk without the slipperiness of charmeuse or chiffon.<\/p>\n<p>Keep reading for of the tips and tricks Shop Girl Mary has learned over the years of working with this fabric!<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>I love the paradox of silk.\u00a0 It swings from satin shimmer to earthy texture, luxurious drape to crisp structure, airy and cool to dense and cozy. We often think of\u00a0silk as formal, expensive, high maintenance, and a sewing challenge.\u00a0 But not always!<\/p>\n<p>Last year I made StyleArc\u2019s Adeline Dress from <a href=\"https:\/\/www.shopstitchsewshop.com\/shop\/FABRIC\/WOVEN-FABRIC\/Silk.htm?search_keyword=raw\">silk noil<\/a> in the color <a href=\"https:\/\/www.shopstitchsewshop.com\/shop\/c\/p\/Boysenberry---Raw-Silk-Noil---Exotic-Silks-x49697668.htm\">Boysenberry<\/a> &#8211; delicious!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I am hooked on this fabric.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Noil is woven from the shorter fibers of silk so it has a matte, slightly rough texture (like some linens).<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is stronger than cotton, surprisingly soft and has a lovely drape. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It tends to be thicker than most silks, but do not mistake that for heavy or hot.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Against the skin it feels light and soft, cool in the summer, but warm in the winter.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Because of its thicker, stable, matte texture, it is easy to cut and sew.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It also resists wrinkles, which is a big plus in my book.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Silk also takes dye beautifully, and the colors of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.shopstitchsewshop.com\/iishop?form_version=2&amp;showSearchResults=1&amp;search_keyword=silk+noil&amp;image=Search\">silk noil at\u00a0the shop<\/a> are gorgeous.<\/p>\n<p>When this lovely fabric arrived, I was already planning my next projects, and the silk noil was perfect for both. Two of my daughters had been begging me to make them a garment; one a classic professional dress and the other a versatile jumpsuit that could go from work to play. For the dress, we chose Vogue 9355 in the\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.shopstitchsewshop.com\/shop\/FABRIC\/WOVEN-FABRIC\/Silk\/p\/Teal-Blue---Raw-Silk-Noil---Exotic-Silks-x49697937.htm\">Teal Blue<\/a>\u00a0silk noil, a saturated blue\/green that reminded us of the Florida waters.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>For the jumpsuit, we used Paper Theory\u2019s Zadie Jumpsuit in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.shopstitchsewshop.com\/shop\/FABRIC\/WOVEN-FABRIC\/Silk\/p\/Canard---Raw-Silk-Noil---Exotic-Silks-x49697717.htm\">Canard<\/a>, a deep rich hunter green.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5102 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_0726-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/>\n<p>I made a muslin for both garments, thankfully!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>(ALWAYS make a muslin!)<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The Zadie is an easy fit, wrap style jumpsuit, so the fitting is pretty straight forward.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The Vogue pattern was a different story.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Comparing the size measurements with the finished measurements, I sized down in the bodice and graded up slightly for the hip. We were closer, but it still required some major tweaking to get the fit correct. I find the big four pattern companies inconsistent in sizing.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The ease is very generous in some areas and stingy in others.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I made three muslins to get a fit we were happy with.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But I LOVE the style!<\/p>\n<p>Before I cut out the garments, I straightened the grain on the fabric by tearing across the cross grain (it wasn\u2019t too scary), serged the raw edges together and tossed it in the gentle cycle, cold water with a little <a href=\"https:\/\/www.shopstitchsewshop.com\/iishop?form_version=2&amp;showSearchResults=1&amp;search_keyword=soak&amp;image=Search\">Soak laundry wash<\/a>. (This stuff is great for delicate fabrics &#8211; no stiff soap residue, gentle on fabric and color.)<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I washed each piece of fabric separately \u2013 silk will often bleed color in the first couple of washes; the darker the color the more it may bleed at first.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I didn\u2019t notice much fading with these fabrics.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Then I dried it on low in my dryer.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This is my usual process.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>After the garments are complete, I usually hang them to dry to preserve their beauty and life.<\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5106 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_0782-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" \/>\n<p>The Zadie is a straightforward sew; very good instructions.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I did have to fiddle a little at the wrap joining to get it to lay flat. When I got it to lay how I wanted it, I stitched a few tack stitches and gave it a good press.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>All my daughters loved how it looked and now they all want one!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>(I think I should make one for myself first!)<\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5104 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_0798-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"857\" \/> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5105 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_0813-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"1091\" \/>\n<p>The Vogue Dress bodice was completely interfaced to give it structure.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I used SF101 in the front neckline piece and French Fuse for the rest of the body.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I was afraid the SF101 would make it look too stiff.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Looking at the pictures of it on my daughter, I think I would use the SF101 in the whole bodice.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is a little limp, not terrible, but not perfect.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5103 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_0735-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\" \/>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>I decided to line the entire dress, not just the bodice.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>A lining protects the garment from wear and distortion, especially in a fitted skirt. I used the Bemberg Rayon Lining in black.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This is a fabric you have to tame (a story for another day), but I am sold on Bemberg.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It feels silky, light and very cool against your skin, even on the hottest of summer days.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>And no static!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5093 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_0754.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1383\" \/> <img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-5094 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_0758.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1548\" \/>\n<p>And of course, now one of my other girls wants a dress; I could be busy for the next decade!<\/p>\n<p>Silk Noil is an often-overlooked fabric choice.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is easy to cut and sew.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It has a lovely drape and soft hand.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is comfortable against the skin, easy care, wrinkle resistant and affordable.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It comes in luscious rich colors and wears well. So, what\u2019s not to love?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Already have my eye on a beautiful color for my next project!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Today we are diving\u00a0into the wonderful world of silk noil! \u00a0This soft, textured fabric is a delight to work with and wear. \u00a0Because\u00a0of how easy it is to handle, it is perfect for garment-makers\u00a0who want the luxury of silk without the slipperiness of charmeuse or chiffon. Keep reading for of the tips and tricks Shop&#8230;  <a class=\"excerpt-read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/stitch-spotlight-silk-noil-aug-2020\/\" title=\"Read Stitch Spotlight :: Silk Noil\">Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":5113,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[83],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5073","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stitch-spotlight"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.9 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Stitch Spotlight :: Silk Noil - Stitch Sew Shop<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/stitch-spotlight-silk-noil-aug-2020\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Stitch Spotlight :: Silk Noil - Stitch Sew Shop\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Today we are diving\u00a0into the wonderful world of silk noil! \u00a0This soft, textured fabric is a delight to work with and wear. \u00a0Because\u00a0of how easy it is to handle, it is perfect for garment-makers\u00a0who want the luxury of silk without the slipperiness of charmeuse or chiffon. 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