{"id":4917,"date":"2020-06-11T14:29:36","date_gmt":"2020-06-11T18:29:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.stitchsewshop.com\/?p=4917"},"modified":"2020-06-12T05:56:23","modified_gmt":"2020-06-12T09:56:23","slug":"stitch-samples-jules-woven-tunic-from-style-arc-june-2020","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/stitch-samples-jules-woven-tunic-from-style-arc-june-2020\/","title":{"rendered":"Stitch Samples :: Jules Woven Tunic from Style Arc"},"content":{"rendered":"

We have all been loving the new colors of silky noil we have at the shop right now – all twenty one of them! This fabric is a viscose (rayon) and linen blend with a soft, subtle texture, making it the\u00a0perfect substrate\u00a0for summer garments like this floaty blouse Mary whipped up recently. \u00a0Fabrics with a lot of drape can sometimes be tricky to sew, but Mary has provided lots of helpful tips (and a video!) for working with shifty fabrics.<\/p>\n

Maker:\u00a0<\/strong>Mary<\/p>\n

Pattern Used:<\/strong><\/p>\n\"\"<\/a>\n

The\u00a0Jules Woven Tunic<\/a> from Style Arc.\u00a0 <\/span>A great casual to work piece. Features a V neckline and front button opening and 7\/8 length sleeves (also known as bracelet length). \u00a0Slightly gathered skirt\/peplum falls softly from a shaped under bust seam.<\/p>\n

Fabric Used:<\/strong><\/p>\n\"\"\n

Silky Noil<\/a> (70% viscose\/30% linen) in the color Ivory and vintage shell buttons from my mother\u2019s button box, but we have lots of wonderful buttons<\/a>\u00a0at Stitch.<\/p>\n

Did you make a muslin?\u00a0Did you make any alterations to the pattern?<\/strong><\/p>\n

I chose my size based on my upper bust measurement so that I would get a good fit through the neck and shoulders.\u00a0 <\/span>Comparing the size chart with the finished measurements, I determined there is about 3\u201d ease through the bust\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

I knew I would need to do a FBA to maintain the 3\u201d ease .\u00a0 <\/span>Also, I prefer a small side dart because I find the fabric falls more gracefully from the bust apex.\u00a0 <\/span>Otherwise it seems to wing out and make the front of the garment stick out. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\"\"\n

I made my trusty muslin!\u00a0 <\/span>Shoulders and neck fit well, I needed to move the bust dart up \u00bd\u201d and I thought the width at the waist was a bit wide for me, so I shaved off 1\u201d front and back at the side seams of the skirt and the bodice going from nothing at the under arms to 1\u201d at the waist.\u00a0 <\/span>I liked the fit better on me.\u00a0 <\/span>Ah, the benefits of a muslin!<\/p>\n

Do you have any tips for construction?<\/strong><\/p>\n

I love, love, love this fabric!\u00a0 <\/span>It is so soft, a bit spongey (it has a little give), drapey and very comfy. As with all drapey, soft fabrics, it can be a bit of a challenge to sew (but so worth it). \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

SOOO, a few tips to encourage you to try these luscious fabrics<\/a>. \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

I have found the most important thing for success in sewing soft, drapey fabrics is to cut the fabric on grain<\/b>.\u00a0 <\/span>The more accurate you are here the better the garment will lay and construction is easier because it doesn\u2019t stretch in weird ways.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

First, straighten the crosswise grain.\u00a0 <\/span>You can do this by making a small snip (1\u201d or so) and quickly tear across the crosswise grain. This is a good method for rayon challis, light weight silks (charmeuse, chiffon, georgette), light cottons (quilting weight, lawn, voile).\u00a0 <\/span>Test first and if you meet a lot of resistance, use the next method.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cFollow the thread across the grain\u201d is the other method I use to straighten the crosswise grain.\u00a0 <\/span>This is great for linens, wools, and heavier fabrics with a strong lengthwise weave (it doesn\u2019t want to tear).\u00a0 <\/span>I pull a thread along the crosswise weave – it will make the thread more visible or pucker the fabric along the thread.\u00a0 <\/span>I will cut along the thread and continue to pull the thread and cut until I cut all the way across the fabric.\u00a0 <\/span>Do both cut edges of the fabric.\u00a0 <\/span>(I am often surprised how off grain fabric can be.\u00a0 <\/span>Purchase \u00bc yard extra of your fabric to avoid any sad surprises.)\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Here is a video Mary made to show this second method for straightening the crosswise grain<\/em>:\u00a0Straightening the Grain<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

If the fabric is less than 2 yards in length, I serge (or zigzag) the edges and wash and dry the fabric as it will be laundered after completed.\u00a0 <\/span>If it is more than 2 yards I serge the two crosswise edges together.\u00a0 <\/span>This keeps it from twisting around itself and distorting even more in the washer and dryer.\u00a0 <\/span>Usually by doing this I find the fabric grain will even out. Remove the serging and carefully press the fabric if necessary.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

I cut the silky noil fabric out in a single layer, lining the crosswise and lengthwise (selvage) along the edge of my cutting mat.\u00a0 <\/span>I used weights and a rotary cutter to avoid distorting the fabric with pins and scissors.\u00a0 <\/span>Because the facings were rather narrow, I reserved a block of fabric big enough to fit the facings and fused the interfacing to that block before I cut out the pattern pieces. (This is called block fusing.) \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

When sewing loosely woven fabrics, always staystitch before doing any sewing. I staystitched the front \u201cV\u201d neckline at a scant seam allowance starting at the lower neckline and sewing to the shoulder so it wouldn\u2019t stretch. The back neckline I stay stitched from the shoulder to the center back, flipped the fabric over and did the other side from the shoulder to the center back.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

You could use French seams with a lighter weight fabric, but the Silky Noil was too thick. \u00a0<\/span>I sewed with a stitch length of 2.2 and then used the four-thread setting on my serger to finish the seams.\u00a0 <\/span>I didn\u2019t want the seams to unravel\u00a0over time.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

I changed the order of sewing given in the pattern instruction.\u00a0 <\/span>I sewed the shoulder seams and side seams of the bodice first. Next, I sewed the side seams of the skirt and made the gathering stitches.\u00a0 <\/span>Then I sewed the skirt to the bodice \u2013 I like a continuous clean line going around the skirt seam.\u00a0 <\/span>I often will press my gathers flat after I pin them to help them behave when I am sewing .\u00a0 <\/span>They don\u2019t tend to creep and shift that way and I don\u2019t need as many pins.\u00a0 <\/span>Then I sewed the facing and hem, followed by the sleeves.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

Would you make it again?<\/strong><\/p>\n

This was a delightful make.\u00a0 <\/span>I liked the pattern from the moment I saw it and I knew exactly the fabric I wanted to use.\u00a0 <\/span>Though a bit of a challenge, I enjoyed the process and allowed myself to savor the texture and softness of the fabric as I was sewing.\u00a0 <\/span>This tunic is so comfortable and stylish.\u00a0 <\/span>I can imagine it in one of our lovely rayon challis, maybe even lengthened for a dress.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\"\"\"\"\n

\n

Stitch Samples<\/a>\u00a0is a blog series that gives you a closer look at the samples made by members of our shop gang.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

We have all been loving the new colors of silky noil we have at the shop right now – all twenty one of them! This fabric is a viscose (rayon) and linen blend with a soft, subtle texture, making it the\u00a0perfect substrate\u00a0for summer garments like this floaty blouse Mary whipped up recently. \u00a0Fabrics with a… Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":4939,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[80,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4917","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-stitch-samples","category-uncategorized"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nStitch Samples :: Jules Woven Tunic from Style Arc - Stitch Sew Shop<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/stitch-samples-jules-woven-tunic-from-style-arc-june-2020\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Stitch Samples :: Jules Woven Tunic from Style Arc - Stitch Sew Shop\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"We have all been loving the new colors of silky noil we have at the shop right now – all twenty one of them! 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