{"id":4725,"date":"2020-04-15T10:27:32","date_gmt":"2020-04-15T14:27:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.stitchsewshop.com\/?p=4725"},"modified":"2020-05-15T10:39:57","modified_gmt":"2020-05-15T14:39:57","slug":"stitch-samples-pietra-shorts-cielo-top-closet-case-patterns-mar-2020","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/stitchsewshop.com\/development\/stitch-samples-pietra-shorts-cielo-top-closet-case-patterns-mar-2020\/","title":{"rendered":"Stitch Samples :: Pietra Shorts & Cielo Top from Closet Case Patterns"},"content":{"rendered":"

Maker:<\/strong> Mary<\/p>\n\"\"\n

Pattern(s) Used<\/strong>:<\/p>\n

Pietra Pants\/Shorts<\/a> & Cielo Dress\/Top<\/a> from Closet Case Patterns.\u00a0 I made the shorts and the short sleeve top.<\/p>\n

Fabric(s) Used<\/strong>:<\/p>\n

The shorts are made in\u00a0Mariner Cloth<\/a> (colorway Salmon).\u00a0 The top is Nani Iro cotton double gauze<\/a> (colorway Fuccura Blue).<\/p>\n\"\"\n

Did you make a muslin?<\/strong><\/p>\n

This is my third\u00a0pair of Pietra shorts, and I have also made both the narrow and wide leg pants.\u00a0 I like this pattern!\u00a0Its flattering with the flat front and pockets (yes, I said pockets!), high waist and elastic back for comfort.\u00a0I did make a muslin with my first pair and I did make some fit changes which I will explain later.<\/p>\n

I have been hesitant to make the Cielo because it has a boxy look, which I am not usually a fan of. But sometimes we need to stretch our comfort zone, so I dove in. And my husband thinks it looks cute, so there may be others. \u00a0Because this was my first time making this pattern, I made a muslin.\u00a0 I made some fit changes which make the pattern more flattering for my body.<\/p>\n

I have learned, with a new pattern, always make a muslin!\u00a0 It saves time, believe it or not.\u00a0 There is nothing worse than spending hours and yards of beautiful fabric, and then discovering IT DOES NOT FIT!\u00a0 Sometimes I have been able to salvage the item, but often not.\u00a0So, MAKE A MUSLIN!<\/p>\n

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I cut the upper front with the grain, everything else on the cross grain.<\/p><\/div>\n

Did you make any alterations to the pattern?<\/strong><\/p>\n

All the alterations I made on these two patterns were for fit and comfort.\u00a0 I made no style changes on this go around.<\/p>\n

Pietra Shorts:\u00a0 I found the pattern to be long in the crotch, so I shortened the crotch, front and back by 1\u201d.\u00a0 Be aware that you will also have to change the notches to match the pockets.\u00a0 I didn\u2019t shorten the pockets, but I did correct the notch placement.\u00a0 I also lengthened the legs by 2\u201d.\u00a0 These are pretty short, and I wanted a little more coverage.<\/p>\n

Cielo Top:\u00a0 I cut a size 10 shoulder and graded to a size 12 at the side seams.\u00a0 I still made a slight full bust adjustment and added about 1\u201d more to the bust.\u00a0 I like to have some sort of dart because I find that, with a dart, the garment will fall straight down from the bust instead of winging out.\u00a0 I also rotated the dart down about 1\u201d and lowered the point of the dart so it points to my actual bust.\u00a0 I then tried on the muslin again and decided to add \u00bd\u201d to the center front length and grade to nothing at the side seams so the front and back are equal length.<\/p>\n

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Full bust adjustment and new dart placement.<\/p><\/div>\n

Do you have any tips for construction?<\/strong><\/p>\n

The Cielo top was pretty straight forward.\u00a0 I did use French seams through out because double gauze\u00a0will tend to fray.\u00a0 I used my serger to sew on the cuffs \u2013 French seams would have been too bulky there.\u00a0 I bound the neckline with self bias tape.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n\"\"\n

Having made the Pietra several times, I have sort of refined some of my techniques.\u00a0 First, I like to cut the facing out of a lightweight cotton.\u00a0 I also cut the waistband in half, added seam allowances to both cut sides and cut one out of the fashion fabric and one from the lightweight cotton.\u00a0 If the fabric is a little thick or heavy, this reduces bulk and helps it lay better at the waist.\u00a0 I also cut the upper side front piece to make a separate pocket piece, which I also cut from the lightweight cotton. \u00a0(I know I make more work for myself, but I like it).<\/p>\n\n\t\t