Today we are diving into the wonderful world of silk noil! This soft, textured fabric is a delight to work with and wear. Because of how easy it is to handle, it is perfect for garment-makers who want the luxury of silk without the slipperiness of charmeuse or chiffon.
Keep reading for of the tips and tricks Shop Girl Mary has learned over the years of working with this fabric!
I love the paradox of silk. It swings from satin shimmer to earthy texture, luxurious drape to crisp structure, airy and cool to dense and cozy. We often think of silk as formal, expensive, high maintenance, and a sewing challenge. But not always!
Last year I made StyleArc’s Adeline Dress from silk noil in the color Boysenberry – delicious! I am hooked on this fabric. Noil is woven from the shorter fibers of silk so it has a matte, slightly rough texture (like some linens). It is stronger than cotton, surprisingly soft and has a lovely drape. It tends to be thicker than most silks, but do not mistake that for heavy or hot. Against the skin it feels light and soft, cool in the summer, but warm in the winter. Because of its thicker, stable, matte texture, it is easy to cut and sew. It also resists wrinkles, which is a big plus in my book. Silk also takes dye beautifully, and the colors of silk noil at the shop are gorgeous.
When this lovely fabric arrived, I was already planning my next projects, and the silk noil was perfect for both. Two of my daughters had been begging me to make them a garment; one a classic professional dress and the other a versatile jumpsuit that could go from work to play. For the dress, we chose Vogue 9355 in the Teal Blue silk noil, a saturated blue/green that reminded us of the Florida waters. For the jumpsuit, we used Paper Theory’s Zadie Jumpsuit in Canard, a deep rich hunter green.
I made a muslin for both garments, thankfully! (ALWAYS make a muslin!) The Zadie is an easy fit, wrap style jumpsuit, so the fitting is pretty straight forward. The Vogue pattern was a different story. Comparing the size measurements with the finished measurements, I sized down in the bodice and graded up slightly for the hip. We were closer, but it still required some major tweaking to get the fit correct. I find the big four pattern companies inconsistent in sizing. The ease is very generous in some areas and stingy in others. I made three muslins to get a fit we were happy with. But I LOVE the style!
Before I cut out the garments, I straightened the grain on the fabric by tearing across the cross grain (it wasn’t too scary), serged the raw edges together and tossed it in the gentle cycle, cold water with a little Soak laundry wash. (This stuff is great for delicate fabrics – no stiff soap residue, gentle on fabric and color.) I washed each piece of fabric separately – silk will often bleed color in the first couple of washes; the darker the color the more it may bleed at first. I didn’t notice much fading with these fabrics. Then I dried it on low in my dryer. This is my usual process. After the garments are complete, I usually hang them to dry to preserve their beauty and life.
The Zadie is a straightforward sew; very good instructions. I did have to fiddle a little at the wrap joining to get it to lay flat. When I got it to lay how I wanted it, I stitched a few tack stitches and gave it a good press. All my daughters loved how it looked and now they all want one! (I think I should make one for myself first!)
The Vogue Dress bodice was completely interfaced to give it structure. I used SF101 in the front neckline piece and French Fuse for the rest of the body. I was afraid the SF101 would make it look too stiff. Looking at the pictures of it on my daughter, I think I would use the SF101 in the whole bodice. It is a little limp, not terrible, but not perfect.
I decided to line the entire dress, not just the bodice. A lining protects the garment from wear and distortion, especially in a fitted skirt. I used the Bemberg Rayon Lining in black. This is a fabric you have to tame (a story for another day), but I am sold on Bemberg. It feels silky, light and very cool against your skin, even on the hottest of summer days. And no static!
And of course, now one of my other girls wants a dress; I could be busy for the next decade!
Silk Noil is an often-overlooked fabric choice. It is easy to cut and sew. It has a lovely drape and soft hand. It is comfortable against the skin, easy care, wrinkle resistant and affordable. It comes in luscious rich colors and wears well. So, what’s not to love? Already have my eye on a beautiful color for my next project!
