The Victory Tank from Chalk & Notch is on our summer Garment Class calendar, so three of the shop girls decided to make samples; the weather is perfect for it!
The Victory Tank is a swing top with a pronounced A-line shape.
The pattern offers two views, one with the “V” detail in front and a keyhole opening in back, and the other with a simple scoop neck in front, and a slightly racer-back style neckline in back. There’s also two lengths available, and the tank top is fully lined, so could theoretically be completely reversible.
The class is only two sessions, but the tank top is pretty straightforward, which means there will be time in class to make small fit adjustments. Things like deepening the armhole, extending the straps, or changing the angle of the dart. Your instructor can help you with all of these simple adjustments, and then you can apply those skills to any top!
The Victory Tank’s simplicity also makes it a great project to get some experience in managing soft, “wiggly” fabric like rayons, tencels, and fine, flimsy silks.
(Above, the dress form is decked out in a Victory Tank in relatively stiff peppered cotton; read more about Janice’s tank below).
What view/size did you make? View A, size 2 for A/B cup, the shorter length
What fabric did you use? 90% silk/10% rayon blend for the main fabric, cotton lawn for the lining.
Did you make any alterations to the pattern? No, but I should have. In the real world, I have what might be considered a large bust. But in the world of pattern adjustments, my measurements don’t warrant a full bust adjustment. A complete muslin (with both the outside and the lining, rather than just the outside layer) would have told me I needed to either use the C/D cup pattern, or make adjustments to the strap and/or arm hole (perhaps both!). As it is, the top is too tight in the front, right at armpit level.
Also, the cotton lawn lining, while very lightweight, is still too structured compared to the silk/rayon blend, giving the finished top a stiff, trapezoid shape, rather than the body-skimming swing top it should be.
Anya made her Victory Tank in view B, size 4 for A/B cup in the longer length. The fabric is a cotton viscose blend from Lady McElroy (there’s only a remnant of the off-white stripe left, unfortunately!). The lining is a very light and airy 100% rayon picasso poplin in black, which is thinner, softer, and more drape-y than the fashion fabric.
Valerie made her Victory Tank in view A, size 16 for C/D cup, in the shorter length. The fabric is a rayon from Rifle Paper Co’s latest “Dahlia” collection, and the lining is the 100% rayon picasso poplin in white.
All three shop girls agree on a few points:
(a) The fabric for this tank top definitely needs to have some softness and significant drape for it to hang on the body properly! Fabrics with rayon, viscose, tencel, and the like will make the best choices. Similarly, the lining needs to be lighter and even softer than the fashion fabric, or at least the same fiber content and weave as the main fabric, if it’s meant to be reversible.
(b) The pattern’s instructions to clip into the curves in the neckline and armholes should absolutely be ignored. Instead, seam allowances (which are only 3/8″ to begin with) should be trimmed to about half that.
First of all, clipping into curves is less stable than trimming (in almost all cases, not just this tank top). Secondly, for this top in particular, clipping the curves still leaves too much seam allowance to be able to execute the “clean finish” in the armholes (aka the Burrito Method). The fabric simply will not fit through the strap otherwise!
(c) It’s best to ignore the hem allowance and hemming instructions on the pattern, and figure out the best length and hemming technique for your body, and for your fabric! What looks best will really depend on what you like, and what works best with the fabric you chose.
(Below: Valerie chose to hem with self-made bias tape, and finish it with a straight stitch).
The red Victory Tank is shown with the Estuary Skirt from Sew Liberated, and Valerie’s Victory Tank is shown with the Saturday Skirt from Friday Patterns Company. They are just two options (out of four) we are offering for our Maxi Skirt class this summer. Click here to sign up for both the Victory Tank and the Maxi Skirt classes!
