Shop Girl Ellen sewed up this pretty blue Yanaka Jacket as a shop sample, but has plans to make one for herself soon. Keep reading for Ellen’s thoughts on the pattern & fabrics used, and for some tips on sewing with corduroy.
Maker: Ellen
Pattern Used: Liesl & Co. Yanaka Jacket
Description: A cross between a blazer and a cardigan, this chic, unlined jacket is semifitted, slightly cropped, and includes several unique features: a cutaway silhouette, cut-on sleeves, a sleeve gusset for better movement and fit, and a gentle stand-up collar. With no set-in sleeve and no closures, this style is fun and easy to sew as well as versatile to wear. The cut-out V-notch at the back hem adds a little extra style, and the pattern is great for color blocking. This style includes cup sizes with added bust darts for C and D cups to help you get a perfect fit.
Recommended Fabrics: medium to heavyweight woven fabrics like denim, canvas, wool coating, jacquard, brocade, and bonded fabrics.
Fabric Used: Lady McElroy Stretch Corduroy :: Eau de Nil. Facings finished with bias tape made from the Rifle Paper Co. Curio Collection :: Botanical Postage Stamps :: Hunter
Did you make any alterations to the pattern?
No, since this jacket was being sewn for a dress form, there was no need for a muslin, and no alterations were needed as the size 18 dress form is almost the exact measurements of the size 18 pattern.
Do you have any tips for construction?
This pattern is very well drafted, with an intermediate skill level. I think a confident beginner could make it, following the instructions carefully and, in places, trusting the process.
Seam finishing is important since the jacket is unlined. I chose to press open and serge the seams that can’t be seen when wearing, like the arm holes, and I used a Hong Kong bias tape finish around all the facings, as they can be seen when wearing.
What did you like about this pattern?
I liked that the making of the jacket looks harder than it really is, but with great instructions you can have a perfect lightweight layer for cooler temperatures.
Any tips for working with this fabric?
I like the way the nap of the fabric came together at different angles with an interesting effect, due to the combination of cut on sleeves and the sleeve gusset. The stretch of this particular corduroy adds a bit of wearing ease, which is nice in a jacket, and wasn’t a problem in construction.
When working with corduroy or other fabrics with a nap (like velvet), be sure that all your pattern pieces are in the same orientation when cutting. Additionally, you need to take care when pressing. It’s advisable to press on the wrong side of the fabric only, and to definitely do a test if you must press on the right side. Placing the fabric right side down on a fluffy towel or even another scrap of corduroy right side up helps avoid crushing the nap. Using a walking foot when sewing corduroy helps things go smoothly.
Would you make it again?
I’m definitely planning to make one for myself! The Yanaka Jacket came together very quickly with the seam finishing taking the most time. I’m sure I’ll have to make some alterations for size, primarily length of sleeves, and I might even add a lining.
Stitch Samples is a blog series that gives you a closer look at the samples made by members of our shop gang.
