The newest member of the Stitch Shop Gang, Ellen, is making her Stitch Samples debut with a beautiful Orchidée Dress from Deer and Doe Patterns in one of our lovely Italian viscose prints. She made the blouse version first, and has some great tips for simplifying the front button closure. Read all about all of the lovely details she added to this very special mother-of-the-bride dress!
Maker: Ellen
Pattern Used:
Orchidée Dress & Blouse from Deer and Doe Patterns
From the pattern description:
Lined dress and blouse with deep V-neck, bridal buttons, and statement sleeves.
Version A: midi dress with zipper closure.
Version B: short blouse with ruffled bottom.
Ellen made the Version B, the top, before making Version A, the dress.
Fabric Used:
I used the Blue & Green Brushstroke Floral Italian Viscose Sateen from Stitch, and for the lining, something I had in my stash. I also used silk organza that I had in my stash as the interfacing and an underlining in the sleeves to give them a bit more structure.
Did you make a muslin?
I didn’t make a muslin because Shop Girl Mary had previously made one that happened to be my size. I also made the Orchidée top, so I had that to go by as well.
Did you make any alterations to the pattern?
I closed the center front seam which was a design decision. The dress has a side zipper, so the button opening was unnecessary. I placed glass buttons from Stitch along the center seam as an embellishment.
I also lengthened the bodice and reduced the size of the armholes, both of which were more of a fit issue.
When I made the top, I doubled the length of the ruffle making it feel more proportional to the rest of the top.
Did you learn any new techniques/skills?
I tried a new technique for inserting the invisible zipper which worked well. The technique involved treating the invisible zip more like a regular zipper and more basting, but the end result was a perfectly inserted zipper.
When I made the top, adding all those button loops in a row was new to me (I had done single button loops before). I will need more practice to get the row done satisfactorily. I used a corded elastic, which might have been part of my struggle with the loops. Purchasing pre-made button loop tape might also be a good solution since I felt like I was all thumbs in trying to sew and curve that cord.
Do you have any tips for construction?
I followed the instructions and the order of construction for everything except for the sleeves. When making the bodice lining, the instructions tell you to baste the lining to the armholes before inserting the sleeves. I wanted all my seams enclosed, so I skipped that, and instead hand stitched the armhole lining over the sleeve seam.
I also changed up the order a bit for the sleeves themselves, making the elastic casing while the sleeve was still flat, leaving 2-3 inches on each side unsewn, to finish after the elastic was inserted. Working with the sleeves flat is much easier.
What did you like about the pattern/fabric?
I loved the unique look of the Orchidée which made it perfect as a Mother of the Bride dress. The pattern itself was well drafted, and instructions were well written and understandable.
The fabric was a delight to work with and I was surprised at how wrinkle free it stayed which was a big win in my book!
What did you dislike about the pattern/fabric?
I would have liked more gathers everywhere except the shoulders, which were fine. I also didn’t like the length of the ruffle on the top, but that was an easy fix.
Would you make it again?
Since I have already made it twice, I probably won’t make it again anytime soon, but if I did, I would still close that center front seam, and would cut the front pieces on the fold.
Stitch Samples is a blog series that gives you a closer look at the samples made by members of our shop gang.
