Shop Girl Mary is sharing one of her first fall makes today – the Fauntleroy from Straight Stitch Designs. The details on this top, from the draped cowl neck to the deep cuffs, look great in both a thick French Terry and a lighter rayon knit like Mary used. Plus, Mary has lots of tips for sewing with and stabilizing slippery knits!
Maker: Mary
Pattern Used:
This is the Fauntleroy from Straight Stitch Designs. Cozy meets refined with raglan sleeves and shoulder darts. You can sew the Fauntleroy with a relaxed turtleneck or cowl neck for a modern take on a classic silhouette. Sew your top in a knit such as ponte for a more structured look or a soft drapey knit for a relaxed look.
Fabric Used:
This fabric is our Lightweight Rayon Pique Knit in Dusty Plum. The texture of this pique knit reminds me of my dad’s Izod golf shirts, but there the similarity ends. This is a deliciously soft, cozy knit with the feel of sanded silk. It has a lot of stretch; lengthwise – 50% stretch and width wise (selvage to selvage) – 75% stretch. It drapes beautifully and can be figure hugging in a close-fitting garment (a tee shirt). It is also an extra wide fabric – 78” wide!
The pictures below show how to test the stretch if you are unsure of the percentage. Measure 4” – not at the edge of the fabric – mark with pins or safety pins, fold the fabric in half, and stretch the fabric gently as far as you can without distorting the fabric too much. For every inch it stretches it is 25%: 1” = 25%, 2” = 50%, 3” = 75%, etc.
Stitch has this knit in three lovely colors: Dusty Plum, Seafoam, and Dusk Blue. I chose the Dusty Plum because I love purples. The fabric has a soft sheen on the right side for a lovely dimension. It could also be used for a dressier garment. Under a shirt or jacket with its smooth finish and lightweight warmth, it would be a great layering piece.
I washed it alone in cold water and dried it on low in the dryer to preshrink it. Rayon does tend to shrink, but I didn’t notice very much shrinkage. It also washed beautifully. Now that the garment is complete, I will wash it by hand or on delicate in a mesh bag and lay it flat to dry.
I chose the pattern for the fabric. I wanted a loose fitting top that would show off the beautiful drape of the fabric without worrying about it being clingy. The Fauntleroy is a great choice, simple and classic, with a cool twist – the raglan sleeve and cowl.
Did you make any alterations to the pattern?
I shortened the length of the body by 2”, I wanted a tunic length, not a dress length. I am only 5’3”, so usually everything is shortened. The sleeves were really long, so I took 2 1/2” off before sewing on the deep cuff.
Do you have any tips for construction?
Usually I use my glass head straight pins when I am sewing, but they kept slipping out of the fabric, so I changed to the wonder clips (love them!) and that solved that issue.
Because the fabric has so much stretch, I was afraid the shoulder seams would stretch out, so I stabilized them with clear elastic. (Used my clips again!) I used a 3-step zigzag stitch and a Teflon foot on my machine. The Teflon foot is great for sewing anything sticky or that tends to drag against the foot, like the clear elastic, pleather, leather, or vinyl. The 3-step zigzag stitch is an excellent choice for sewing elastic directly onto fabric. It is secure, has good stretch and lays flat against the fabric (see pictures below).
The only thing I sewed on my conventional sewing machine was the clear elastic, everything else was done on my serger using a 3-thread wide stitch. I do love my serger! It would be just as easy to sew with a zigzag stitch on your conventional machine, but do use a walking foot if you have one. This fabric wants to move and is a little shifty, so the walking foot is a life saver. Also, I would suggest using a Stretch Needle, size 75/11. Stretch Needles help eliminate skipped stitches in fabrics that have spandex. I use them for most of my knit fabric sewing.
When you iron rayon, be sure your iron is not too hot and don’t use a lot of pressure. You may end up with a shiny seam. (see picture) I used steam from the iron and then finger pressed the seams. With some rayons and tencels, if you press in a shiny spot, you can rub it with another piece of the rayon fabric, and the shine will disappear—sometimes.
What did you like or dislike about the pattern/fabric?
I love the feel of this fabric, soft and cozy without being heavy, and I like the soft colors. It does require a little more care when sewing, but I think choosing a simple pattern like the Fauntleroy is a good choice. It sewed up quickly, and I think it showcases the fabric well with the soft cowl and looser fit.
I will keep the Fauntleroy in rotation this fall and winter. It is a simple, fast sew and fits true to size. A great basic.
Other great patterns for this fabric: Style Arc-Hedy Dress, Closet Core – Ebony Tee & Dress, Sew House Seven – Tabor V Neck
Stitch Samples is a blog series that gives you a closer look at the samples made by members of our shop gang.
