Henna is on the blog today with two versions of a fabulous wrap dress from Closet Core Patterns – the first release since their rebranding!
Maker: Henna
Pattern Used:
I made the new Elodie Wrap Dress from Closet Core Patterns in View B with the midi skirt length. Both views can be made with three different hem lengths, with or without patch pockets. View A has a shorter sleeve, but I like the longer sleeve length because I feel I can get more use out of the dress throughout the year. I included the pockets in one of my versions.
(Elodie is also available up to a size 30 in PDF format, which we would be happy to print for you!)
Fabric Used:
I was a tester for this pattern, so I made the first tester version (the blue and white one) in a lightweight cotton sateen (from Art Gallery) that we carried at the shop a while back. I had been saving it for a summer dress, and I think this fit the bill quite nicely.
The second one I made using the final pattern, because I love to see what changes were made after the testing process. The fabric I used is called Moonlit Enchanted Forest, which is a rayon challis in the Dusk Till Dawn collection from Cotton & Steel (it also comes in two other colors: Majestic Violet and Wild Mulberry). I loved this collection as soon as it arrived in the shop and knew I’d make something in one of the rayons!
Did you make a muslin?
I made a muslin of the bodice both times, and I highly recommend it. The release pleats on the front provide the shaping, so it’s important that they sit in the right spot. In the final version of the pattern, the pleats were in a great location for me (exactly where I had moved them when I did the testing!), but a little too tall, so I shortened them by 1/4”.
I am a C cup in sewing patterns, so sometimes I can skip a full bust adjustment, especially in a loose-fitting garment like this. For my first version I did a small 1/2” FBA to give me the extra inch across the front plus a little more length at center front. For the second one I decided to skip it, since I knew the rayon would have more drape and be a little more forgiving anyway.
Do you have any tips for construction?
The only thing I did differently was to add interfacing in a few areas for extra stability. At the neckline, I cut narrow strips (3/8″) of interfacing and fused them to the stitching line before stay stitching. Along the center front edges of the skirt and at the top edges of the pocket, I used fusible seam tape. These are all areas that I worry about stretching out and distorting, so the interfacing plus stay stitching is like extra insurance!
What did you like about the pattern/fabric?
I love wrap dresses, so this pattern gets an emphatic YES from me. I love the sweep of the skirt and the softness of the pleats. Both versions will get a lot of wear.
The cotton sateen was a dream to sew with and gave me no trouble at all. The Cotton & Steel rayon is one of my favorite substrates because it is a little heavier and more stable than many other types of rayon challis I’ve encountered.
What did you dislike about the pattern/fabric?
This pattern is cut flat (fabric is not folded) and uses quite a lot of yardage, so just prepare for a very long, careful cutting session! Even though this method is very fabric-efficient, I made a silly error when cutting out the second dress and barely eked out all of the pieces after that.
Would you make it again?
I would definitely make it again, maybe in something light and airy like a cotton lawn. I could also see this made up for a holiday party (eventually!) in a silk charmeuse.
Stitch Samples is a blog series that gives you a closer look at the samples made by members of our shop gang.
