We’re always working away on shop samples here at Stitch! Not only are they great for displaying, they’re also an opportunity for our shop gang to test out patterns and fabrics so that we’re always ready to answer your questions. And because we have dress forms in staff sizes, we get to fit the garments to our own measurements!
We are starting a new blog series to give you a closer, behind-the-scenes look at our sample-making. First up, we have Valerie, sharing her latest make!
Maker: Valerie
Pattern(s) Used:
Calvin Wrap Dress & Top from True Bias
Fabric(s) Used:
Merchant & Mills European Linen/Cotton Mix in Frontier Red (we also have it in blue or grey!)
Did you make a muslin?I usually have to do full bust adjustments, but I was hoping to get away without one. Calvin is a sleeveless dress, so I knew I wouldn’t have to worry too much about fitting the shoulder area. I decided to do a muslin just in case!
Although my final project was the dress (View B), I figured I could make the top (View A) for my muslin, as I only needed to test the bust area. I used fabric leftover from a previous project, and it was just enough to cut the main pieces. I did some piecing to make the bias trim, and used contrast fabric to make the ties.
I chose size 16 based on my full bust measurement, and the bodice fit pretty well, except for a little gap in the armpit area. Had I chosen a smaller size and done a full bust adjustment, that would have made the armscye smaller and solved that problem!
Did you make any alterations to the pattern?
The one fit change I made was rotating the dart and making it a bit bigger. Since I was happy with the fit through the bustline, but wanted to get rid of the little gap in the armpit, I rotated the dart upwards and made it 1/2” wider. That smoothed everything out perfectly!
Style-wise, I cut the bias trim twice as wide, because I like the look of the wider trim. This meant I had to use different hardware for the adjustable straps, as the pattern calls for 1/2” lingerie hardware for the skinny straps. My wider straps ended up being 3/4” wide, so I used 1” handbag hardware instead. I also made the ends of the bias wrap ties pointed, rather than straight across.
When I make the top again (which I definitely will!), I’ll add 2” to the hem, just so I can have a bit more fabric to hem with. The pattern calls for a very narrow hem, and I like the look of a wider one (with a bit more fabric in it to weigh it down). I hemmed my muslin with bias tape to preserve as much length as possible.
Did you learn any new techniques/skills?
One new thing I learned was how to make a thread loop for the belt. It was easy, and much more sturdy than I thought it would be!
Do you have any tips for construction?
Calvin is a pretty simple project skills-wise. Making the bias tape is the most time-consuming part.
It’s a little difficult to test the fit in the bust line without completing the whole thing. So, if you’re not sure about the fit, I would suggest basting the darts and then pinning the straps in place to try it on, before actually sewing on any bias trim.
The pattern calls for nearly an entire extra yard to make the bias binding, but at size 16 and 60” wide fabric, I was able to use my leftovers to make the binding with careful cutting. Making continuous binding will save you even more fabric. Here’s one tutorial (there are tons!) that can show you how: making continuous bias tape.
What did you like about the pattern/fabric?
I love how quickly Calvin comes together! The fabric is incredibly soft. The houndstooth-like weave makes it a bit more interesting than a solid, but still very easy to wear.
What did you dislike about the pattern/fabric?
Like I mentioned earlier, the pattern is hard to fit without practically completing the garment, but it is worth it to make sure the bust is just right.
The fabric is gorgeous and I really have no complaints.
Would you make it again?
I already have plans to make another top, again using leftovers from another project…the Calvin top is really great for stash busting! It’s a very bold print, so I’ll be using contrasting solid fabric to make all the bias trim.
I tend to wear more separates than dresses, so I might not make another Calvin dress. I already know I’ll get lots of wear this summer out of my two Calvin tops!
